Page 39 - Valley Table - November 2022-February 2023

sensation. Considered strange and poisonous—and even believed to cause everything from syphilis to leprosy—potatoes were actually illegal in France from 1748 to 1772. That changed when both rulers and villagers realized that potatoes had significant agricultural advantages over wheat, Europe’s prevailing staple. The crop yielded four times more calories
per acre and could be grown in a wider range of soils and climates. (Potatoes were also harder to steal or tax since they grow underground.)
Today, there are over 4,000 varieties around the globe, and many grow well in the Hudson Valley. Jean Paul Stewart- Courtens, who runs Philia Farm in Johnstown, has extensive experience growing potatoes. His personal favorites—all developed by Cornell University—are Keuka Gold, Red Maria, Eva, and Salem. Keuka Gold, Cornell’s take on Yukon Gold (which are native to Ontario), was bred to handle drastic temperature swings, short growing seasons, and uneven rainfall. Red Maria is a good all-purpose potato that retains moisture when baked and holds its shape for potato salad. While white varieties Salem and Eva are both good mashers, Eva is superior for frying.
If you’re interested in trying to grow your own, know that potatoes sprout from chunks of the tuber known as seed potatoes. Stewart-Courtens recommends selecting certified
seed stock from farms, trusted nurseries and garden centers,
or businesses like Hudson Valley Seed Company. (Don’t
plant supermarket potatoes, they’re treated to resist sprouting; potatoes from farmers markets are OK!) Potatoes should be planted in the spring and harvested after the foliage has died back, usually in September. To prepare for planting, let potatoes sprout on the windowsill then cut them into pieces with at least one to three sprouts per piece. Cure—aka let them sit out in temperatures of 45–60 degrees—for a day or two to prevent rot and plant in shallow trenches, at least 14 inches apart. Cover with three inches of soil, continually apply a biodegradable mulch (deep hay or straw mulch work best), and make sure that the potatoes are well watered while flowering.
Next fall, when you’ve harvested your potatoes, store them in a cool, dark, place. Avoid the refrigerator (the cold temperature will turn the starches into sugars) and don’t keep them near onions because their gases will accelerate sprouting.
Despite its inauspicious start, today the potato is the most popular vegetable in the world, largely due to French fries
but also thanks to such national specialties as Irish colcannon (potatoes mashed with cabbage), Indian saag aloo (a spicy potato-spinach curry), and potato dumplings like Polish pierogi and Italian gnocchi. In the unlikely event that you need more of an incentive to savor the potato, keep in mind that they are packed with vitamins and minerals (especially potassium, and vitamins C and B6), high in fiber, fat free, and can help elevate serotonin levels—making potatoes natural mood boosters. ❖
TRUFFLE POTATO TERRINE
COURTESY OF FRANCESCO GALLO AT THE NEW YORK RESTAURANT, CATSKILL YIELDS 4–6 SERVINGS
Ingredients
2 lbs Idaho potatoes, peeled 8 oz. heavy cream
1 shallot, diced
4 Tbsp butter
8 oz. grated Parmesan cheese 1 Tbsp dry thyme
3 oz. truffle oil
Salt and black pepper
Preparation
1. Using a mandolin, slice potatoes about 3-mm thick.
2. In a large casserole dish over medium heat, melt the butter, and let it caramelize for about 5 minutes.
3. Add the sliced potatoes, lightly season them with
salt and pepper, and stir until they start to stick
to one another, about 15 minutes. Add the heavy cream, truffle oil, and Parmesan, and stir. Cook for an additional 2–3 minutes, or until incorporated.
4. Transfer the mixture to a 9-by-13” baking tray lined with parchment paper. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, press down to eliminate any air trapped in the mixture. Cover the tray with another sheet of parchment paper and bake for 1.5 hours at 375°F.
5. Remove from the oven and let cool for 3–5 minutes. Slice into preferred portion size and serve.
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