Page 44 - Valley Table - September/Novemebr 2024

42 ValleyTable | September–November2024
Peter X. Kelly
Chef/Owner, X2O Xaviars on the Hudson, Yonkers, and Culinary Director, Apropos Restaurant, Peekskill
Any foodie worth their salt
knows X2O, the elegant waterside restaurant Kelly opened in 2007, basically signaling a renaissance in Yonkers. There are two parts to the restaurant: the formal main dining room where you’ll find locally sourced ingredients paired with Kelly’s signature French approach and Asian embellishments, and
the more playful Dylan Bar and Lounge for small plates and sushi. In April, Kelly took on the role
of culinary director of Apropos Restaurant in Peekskill. Situated in the historic Abbey Inn, the eatery features an elevated menu with a similar commitment to European techniques, Asian embellishments, and Hudson Valley ingredients.
❘PANTRY MUST Vietnamese fish sauce
“I have many interesting things in my pantry including Oreos, jumbo cashews, very good red wine,
and aged sherry—but these are mostly to keep me happy while I’m cooking. However, there’s always
a bottle of Vietnamese fish sauce to add a note of umami and savory to many dishes I like to prepare. Fish sauce is used a lot in East Asia, Thailand, Laos, The Philippines, and Vietnam; they use it much the same way we use salt and pepper. Its smell from the bottle can be off-putting but just a few drops add an exotic aroma and flavor to fish, vegetables, and meats.”
How do you use it? “I mix fresh lime juice with fish sauce (1 cup lime juice to 1/4 cup fish sauce) and use a few drops on buttered vegetables. I add garlic and chili to create a basting sauce for grilled chicken. And I mix the lime fish sauce with olive oil, sherry vinegar, cilantro, and shallots to make an exotic salad dressing.”
Chris Bradley
Chef/Partner, ELIZA, Fletcher & Lu, and Ollie’s Slice Shop, Kingston, and Ollie’s Pizza, High Falls
Open since late 2023, Eliza is a European-inflected bistro which
draws on the same farm friendly “reduce and reuse with a nod to
the seasons” ethos as Fletcher & Lu, the owner’s traiteur-charcuterie
next door. Chef Bradley, who’s also a partner (as well as an alum of
NYC’s Gramercy Tavern and former chef/partner at Phoenicia Diner), takes his influence from local ingredients in their prime, with a focused, no-nonsense menu featuring simple preparations of seasonal vegetables, a wood-roasted chicken with garlic jus, fresh pasta, and a Butcher’s Blend burger.
❘PANTRY MUST Kewpie mayo
How do you use it? “I put it on everything—sandwiches, salads, and as a base for dressings and sauces. It’s on our menu alongside the French fries, and more often than not, people try it and skip the ketchup. I love it first and foremost because of my long-standing love affair with mayo in general. Duke’s mayo was my go-to because of its high acidity as well as the absence of sugar which makes for a better food complement in my opinion. Kewpie matches that flavor profile and then boosts it even more with an umami-rich kick.”
PHOTOS (TOP TO BOTTOM) COURTESY OF PETER KELLY; RESPECTIVE FOOD COMPANIES; CHRIS BRADLEY