Page 110 - MLT December

epicure
Review
by Ken Alan
photographs by Steve Legato
Haute Headliner
At Kennett Square’s Verbena BYOB, a talented chef showcases his style.
Scott Morozin is a busy man. But for diners at his cozy Kennett Square restaurant, it might be hard to tell. “My guests only see me working four hours a day,” the 41-year-old says with a shy smile. “But I actually live this life 24 hours a day, every day.”
Perseverance and experience have helped the journeyman
chef establish himself in the suddenly trendy Chester County borough. Morozin has had stints with the legendary Stephen Starr, R2L’s Daniel Stern and Blackfish BYOB’s Chip Roman. He opened Verbena BYOB to stellar accolades in early 2018, and
he has yet to slow down.
Right in the center of Kennett Square’s historic district, Morozin’s diminutive 36-seater is rustic, if not minimalistic.
Details
The wood tables, credenzas and hutches, and metallic objects
d’art affixed to exposed brick walls are atmospheric enough when the food is this visually appealing. Kennett is known for its fungi farms, so it’s only natural that mushroom soup would make an appearance on the menu. Morozin’s creamless version combines earthy cremini mushrooms, orange juice, coffee and red wine. Pureed in vegetable stock, the finished broth imparts a dusky, sweet, tamarind-like undertone. Another first-course standout, the vodka-cured Õra King salmon comes with a buttery-sweet onion sauce, salmon roe and mustard crackers.
Next, we selected three of the five second courses offered on
the evening we visited. The plump Bristol continued on page 112
Verbena BYOB, 102 State St., Kennett Square, (484) 732-7932, www.verbenabyob.com. COST: $14-$30. ATTIRE: Smart and stylish. ATMOSPHERE: A tasteful, calming series of spaces. HOURS: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday, 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. EXTRAS: Six-course tasting menu ($100 per person).
108 December 2019 | www.mainlinetoday.com