Page 31 - The Hunt - Fall 2023

Country
Cuisine
Throughout the Brandywine Valley, lovely back-road drives are rewarded with destination restaurants
serving exceptional food.
BY ROGER MORRIS |
All over our rich countryside in the quiet glow of autumn days, you’ll find quaint crossroad villages with names like
Doe Run, West Grove, Unionville and
Marshallton. With no parking meters to feed and no traffic jams at peak hours, each is home
to at least one intriguing culinary destination. Leaving West Chester, Strasburg Road quickly slips
into the wooded countryside, downhill and across a branch of the Brandywine and up past the northern edges of Stroud Preserve. Quite suddenly, you’re in the village of Marshallton. Small, neat and quiet today,
it was once a stop on the journey from Philadelphia
to Pittsburgh. A more casual counterpart to the Marshalton Inn, which sits just across a courtyard and parking area, Four Dogs Tavern was once a stable and barn. The name comes from a portrait of four canines discovered during renovation.
In cooler months, the coziest part of the restaurant is next to a fireplace near the bar. The vibe changes in summer and fall with tables outside beneath the trees. Four Dogs’ “new American, brassiere-style” menu
PHOTOS BY JIM GRAHAM
is one of the most interesting in the area. It’s one
of the few places where you can find Burgundy snails and duck terrine alongside Carolina pulled
pork sandwiches, a griddled Reuben and pear
salad. There’s also a full bar. 1300 W. Strasburg Road, West Chester, Pennsylvania, (610) 692-4367, thefourdogstavern.com.
Whereas Four Dogs Tavern once served the needs of horses, Twelves Grill & Cafe had a past life as a bank. Located next to the post office just off old Route 1 in West Grove, Twelves was purchased in 2018 by current owners Knute and Bernadette Mellon. The pair recently branched out to open Blondes and Brewnettes Brewing Company nearby.
There’s a certain throwback charm to Twelves, with its small main dining area centered around an open bank vault. The varied, simply prepared menu features favorites like crab cakes, burgers and tasty salads. While continuing its BYOB tradition, it now offers local beers and wines. 10 Exchange Place, West Grove, Pennsylvania, (610) 869-4020, twelvesgrill.com.
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