Page 9 - Italian American Herald - April 2020

By Antonella Sacco
I once received advice to not bother with guide books when embarking on my first trip to Venice, I initially had the idea that Venice was not particularly at the top of my list. I was traveling with a friend who desperately wanted to visit the country and needed a travel buddy familiar with the language
and culture. What the heck? Any reason to go to Italy was OK by me. We booked the obligatory first-time- to-Italy package tour consisting of the trifecta of Italian cities: Venice, Florence, and Rome.
I had been to Rome aplenty and was looking forward to my first time in Venice. Perhaps I had already had a preconceived notion based on common tourists’ opinions. The food isn’t that good compared to other regions. Venice is slowly going under water. You only need three days and that’s enough. In other words, I planned to do my big stops and move along.
Upon our arrival at the Santa Lucia train station, I was very curious about the hustle and bustle of the locals. Stepping out, I immediately noted Italian businessmen sporting fashionable blazers paired down with slim jeans and beautiful hand-stitched loafers. Women dressed fashionably but
less bold than their southern counterparts. All were on cell phones. They seemed to embody business casual before there was such a term in the United States. Our tour provided a private water taxi from the platform of the train station directly to the hotel. As a first-time navigator in a city strictly run on water, this was a big help and worth the extra money. Our “driver” held up a sign ready to transport us to Hotel Royal San Marco and Suites on the Canal.
It was unique in the very sense that instead of boarding a train or bus, we were gently boarded on a speedboat.
After the other passengers were settled, we took off.
For a first-time visitor to this enchanting city, it was quite a sight to see the lido as
the speedboat pulled away. We were taken
to the dock of the hotel on the canal and assisted to the entrance. The hotel itself
was what I imagined to be “Venetian” style with rich drapery and a dark wood lobby. The hotel and staff were efficient and fairly pleasant. The first day was spent walking and exploring. Venice boasts many side streets and it seemed every wall had a sign posted with an arrow pointing to the Rialto Bridge or St. Mark’s Square. It was my experience that every single arrow brought us back to our original point of destination. No matter, the fun was in the exploring. According to TripSavvy.com, there are over 400 bridges in
Venice. Crossing over these “mini” bridges is “crossing the street” except you’re crossing the canal. Historically, they were originally flat and made of wood to assist in crossing horse carriages. It was around the 16th century when bridges began to be constructed
with arches and stone to accommodate the growing number of boats circulating through the city. One can visualize the importance of merchants and commerce during this period. Walking in and around the side streets and main canal, it was easy to see there is no shortage of Venetian masks, Murano glass, and jewelry vendors all along promenades and tourist stops. As a matter of fact, there were so many intricately designed masks
in every color and style that it was a chore to choose what to buy and take home as a souvenir. Prices ranged anywhere from 30 euros to over 100 euros on the street.
Murano and Burano arguably follow a close second to a must-visit experience. Murano in particular perfected the art of glass-making for centuries and it is quite the impression to get up close and personal to the art of glass- blowing. It is fairly easy to purchase a ticket for a demonstration. The Santa Chiara Glass Cathedral is just a two-minute walk from the water bus stop and tickets are less then $10. For 30 minutes you can observe a master glass blower creating their art using ancient furnaces. It was a small price to see how these artisans create these world-famous objects. We found the master glass blowers charming and insightful while interacting with their audience. The demonstrations show their technique as well as the finished product.
One interesting part of the tour is when the guide walks you through the factory of all the uniquely made chandeliers, exotic shaped
quieter in comparison. Burano’s standout feature is the promenade of brightly colored painted houses on the lagoon. Legend has it that fisherman painted their homes with such bright colors in times of heavy fog. The Old Fish Market is the place to visit for some of the island’s best seafood. Another of Burano’s claims to fame is lace. The art of lace-making dates back to 1500, however there was a decline in craftsmanship in the latter part
of the 20th century. The Lace Museum of Burano was constructed in 1978 to revive the ancient style and technique of the craft. Today Burano lace is hailed worldwide in fashion houses and the cognoscenti.
Lastly, travelers want to know what
the cuisine is like and where to dine. Like any other city in the world, it is best to do research where the locals tend to go and to stay away from tourist traps. Venice differs from central and southern Italian cities in that pizza and pasta are not necessarily the “star” dishes. Polenta and risotto rule the palates in these parts. I suggest Risotto al Mare. If you’re more of an adventurous eater, fegato or liver is a popular dish. Lastly, if you are visiting Venice you must make a stop at Cipriani’s or Harry’s Bar. If you wish to dine there, making reservations ahead of time is strongly recommended. My traveling partner and I just happened to stop in for a drink and we were seated quickly. There was only one drink to order. Can you guess? If you didn’t already know, the Bellini was invented right in this maritime city. When in Venice, by all means order yourself one, even if it is the tourist thing to do.
Here are some suggestions on getting to and around Venice for travelers who opt for flexibility. Early spring travel usually offers some great deals in low airfare. Note that the weather in Northern Italy can be cool and somewhat damp at times during that time
of year. Although not a guarantee, a special can run anywhere from $400-$600 round trip. This would require keeping a lookout
at all travel sites and locking your dates. Secondly, while in Venice, downloading a few recommended apps can be highly useful in planning your routes, times as well as prices of vaporettos, museum tickets, and passes
for certain sites. According to Veniceinsider. com, some useful apps include Chebateo , AVM Venezia, My Pass Venezia and lastly the Kishare app which pairs up travelers for share services.
Venice was at one time the commercial center of the world for over 500 years. As
it turns out, there is much to explore and discover. It just may be worth your while to spend a few days in this enchanting city on the water and learn her secrets. IAH
ITALIAN-AMERICAN HERALD
APRIL2020 | ITALIANAMERICANHERALD.COM 9
TRAVEL
Discover enchantment in an ancient city that’s slowly going under water
The most famous landmark in all of Venice is St. Mark’s Square or Piazza San Marco. The large open square is surrounded pigeons and one of the most popular Instagram photo locations in the world. In the center of the square sits St. Mark’s Basilica with the campanile or bell tower as one of the city’s most famous landmarks. Next to the Basilica is the Doges Palace. I highly recommend visiting this Venetian Gothic treasure. Built around 1342, the palace was home to the Doge of Venice, which today
we call a chief magistrate. At the main entrance you will find the Staircase of the Giants, guarded by large statues of Mars and Neptune, created by the famous architect Jacopo Sansovino. Today it is a museum offering various tours and itineraries, but the most remarkable feature is the view of all of St. Mark’s Square and all of Venice through its famed balconies.
The outer islands of Venice receive almost as much acclaim as the jewel of the Adriatic.
lamps, dishes, and vases. If you’re so inclined, you can have an item shipped directly to your home anywhere in the world. A memory that stands out is that of wooden boxes marked with names of visitors who opted to have glassware shipped. I did a double take with one in particular marked “Per Nicolas Cage” meaning for Nicolas Cage. Well, how else would celebrities choose a one-of-a-kind
art object created by a master Venetian glass blower? Although the main attraction of Murano by far is watching craftsman create the most beautiful items with liquid glass, there are other areas I recommend. One is the Basilica of Santa Maria and San Donato. What is unique are the Byzantine mosaic floors and dome as well as rib bones of St. Donato above the altar. Another sight not to be missed is Campo Santo Stefano. The blue glass sculpture known as “Comet Glass Star” by Simone Cenedese sits in the middle of the square and is a very popular tourist stop.
The island of Burano is much smaller and