Page 47 - The Valley Table - Winter 2022

In fact, ancient Romans believed that beets and their juice were aphrodisiacs—frescoes of beets decorate the walls
of a brothel in Pompeii. It’s not all folklore: Beets contain tryptophan and betaine, substances that promote a feeling
of well-being, and boron, a trace mineral which can increase the body’s level of sex hormones. Beyond being a
potential love potion, beets are very nutritious, packed with folate, vitamins A and K, potassium,
copper, and manganese, as well as plenty of fiber.
Beets eventually made their way to the U.S. and were well established
by the 18th century. The Shakers are among those who deserve credit for
mass distribution of the plant—they were one of the first to dive into the commercial seed market. Yet, beets still remain controversial (the
Obamas were vocally anti-beet; they refused to grow them in the White House Garden). According
to Catherine Kaczor, the marketing manager at the Hudson Valley Seed Company (HVSC) in Accord, the
geosmin compound in beets “causes a lot of divisiveness [because] it makes beets taste earthy... or just like plain dirt sometimes.”
Luckily for those of us who love beets, the Hudson River (and its many tributaries) creates rich, alluvial soil that’s perfect for growing them—and red, golden, and Chioggia beets are widely available. Consider branching out beyond red: golden beets are “famously sweet,” says Kaczor. Chioggia are in a category of their own—best eaten raw, this showy beet with its red-and-white bulls-eye pattern
is perfect for holidays and dinner parties. Yellow or white beets, though less accessible, are mild in flavor (and don’t stain your fingers). Kaczor recommends stopping by local farms like Long Season Farm in Kerhonkson or Rise and Root in Chester if you can’t find them in grocery stores. Just keep in mind whether you’re shopping for beets at a farmers market or at the grocery store—the smaller the better. Large beets are less flavorful.
If you want to try growing beets in your backyard, the HVSC sells a variety of organic seeds, including their Brilliant Beet Blend, a combination of Detroit Dark Red, Cylindra, Bulls Blood, Touchstone Gold, and Chioggia. Their goal is to educate the region in seed production
and stewardship. HVSC is currently working with Solveig Hansen, a plant breeding and genetics expert at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, to increase the seed stock of new and rare beet varieties. You can order HVSC seeds at hudsonvalleyseed.com; check out their blog for gardening advice and storage tips.
Beets are delicious simply roasted with olive oil and herbs, but they are also great pickled or in a refreshing winter salad. Here are a few easy, flavor-packed recipes from local chefs. 
BEET HUMMUS
CATSKILLS PROVISIONS, CALLICOON
Ingredients
8 cloves garlic, peeled (for the confit) Extra-virgin olive oil
2 beets
2 15-oz cans chickpeas, drained
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 lemons, zested and juiced 2 tablespoons tahini
Salt and pepper to taste
To make garlic confit:
Preheat oven to 300°F. Place garlic cloves in an ovenproof skillet. Add olive oil until cloves are completely submerged. Cover and bake until garlic is golden and tender, about an hour. The confit can be refrigerated for up to two weeks until ready to use.
Preparation
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut tops off beets and scrub thoroughly with water and a vegetable brush.
2. Wrap beets loosely in aluminum foil, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast for 50–60 minutes or until easily pierced. Allow beets to cool, peel and cut into cubes.
3. Place beets in a food processor and pulse to break up the cubes into tiny pieces.
4. Add remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. If too thick, add water for desired consistency.
PHOTOS (LEFT TO RIGHT) BY VALENTINA R/ADOBE STOCK; COURTESY OF CATSKILL PROVISIONS
dec 2021 – feb 2022 valleytable.com 45