Page 35 - The Valley Table - Winter 2022

PHOTO BY LAWRENCE BRAUN
dec 2021 – feb 2022 valleytable.com 33
West Taghkanic Diner
After a seven-year stint as a chef in Copenhagen, Denmark, Hudson Valley native Kristopher Schram found himself stateside once again and in need of a new project. When his father told him that the West Taghkanic Diner—which opened in 1953
as a respite for weary travelers—was for sale, he knew this was a concept he could have fun with. “I’ve taken my 20 plus years of experience using quality ingredients and combined it with a diner’s basic staples,” he says. “We still have a NYC-style pastrami Reuben and a turkey club on the menu, but we also offer roasted shishito peppers and a smoked squash soup.” It’s all made possible by the smoker that Schram installed in his parking lot, where he crafts his own bacon, sandwich meat, and that smoked squash, among other delights. Most of the pork comes from Fat Apple Farms just up the road; the beef and turkey are sourced from spots like Northwind Farms in Tivoli; and a ton of veggies come from MX Morningstar in Hudson.
When he purchased the diner in 2018, it was in near original condition. “It’s like a time capsule. 1953 was a great year for diners,” says Schram. He retiled the terrazzo floors, reupholstered a
few booths, and replaced the lighting but kept
the integrity of the space. Customers who prefer to dine al fresco can do so amid a flower and herb garden—weather permitting—maintained by Lu-Na Blooms & Herbs, a nearby farmer. (Fresh cut bouquets are sold in season at the counter, too.) All of which lends itself to Schram’s idea of upgrading the diner experience without sacrificing familiarity and comfort. “American diners started off as very minimal, with very simple home cooking, and then in the '60s and '70s diners became all about huge menus. But these days people care a lot more about what they eat and where the ingredients come from,” he says. “It’s coming full circle.”
Ancram; 518.851.3333; wtdinerny.com