Page 24 - The Valley Table - Summer 2021

Ancient grains reflect the industry’s efforts to reconnect the dots between modern bread and its forebearers, but another crucial factor in a bread’s quality is the freshness of its ingredients.
Flour isn’t a product that many consumers consider to be perishable because — well, it basically isn’t. “At the typical grocery store, the mass-produced roller mill enriched
flour could have been milled a very long time before the consumer actually purchases the flour,” says Anne Mayhew, owner of Katonah-based LMNOP Bakery. “They sift it to extract the bran and to extract the germ, stripping it of any nutritional value just to be shelf stable.”
Mayhew, who works as a “baker-in-residence” at Mast Market in Mt. Kisco, quickly discovered the difference that freshly milled flour made to her products. “We’re only using flour, water, and salt,” she explains. “The flour is giving the bread everything. So, if we’re using better flour, that’s going to give it more flavor from start to finish.”
Mayhew sources LMNOP’s flour from Wild Hive Farm, an organic miller in Clinton Corners that also supplies New York royalty like Eataly and Gramercy Tavern. Wild Hive gives customers their choice of grain, grind, and — for those looking to jump right in — sourdough starter.
The increase in flour quality does not come without complications, however. For one, the flour hydrates differently; it requires more water than conventional flour. Also, because the freshly milled flour retains more of the germ and the bran — the parts of the grain with nutritional value — the interior of the bread may not be as light and airy as some other loaves.
22 the valley table
june – aug 2021
Aside from taste, there is the added benefit of digestibility, touted by both Roy and Mayhew. “It’s much better for
your body. A sourdough or naturally leavened bread with freshly milled flour is a lot easier for everyone to digest,” says Mayhew.
Although the evidence of this tends toward the anecdotal side of the spectrum, the proof is in the (bread) pudding. Excluding those with Celiac disease diagnoses, bakers often report that people who are gluten-intolerant or struggle with digestive issues discover they can consume naturally leavened bread without any consequences.
There are many theories explaining this peculiar fact, but the general consensus is that the sourdough fermentation process helps to break down phytates, lectins, and saponins — compounds that can inhibit the absorption of some minerals — eliminating barriers to digestion before you’ve taken your first bite.
Regardless of the reasons for its rise, artisanal bread is a welcome reminder that the simplest food often tastes the best and offers the most nutritional benefits. And while naturally leavened bread won't magically rectify dietary allergies or intolerances, the ancient relationship between humans and grains is an evolutionary bond that Roy, Quint, Leader, and Mayhew all consider sacred. 