Page 18 - Valley Table - Spring 2021
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Out-of-towners and locals alike find more than their fair share of culinary riches in this trend-driven city. Here’s how we’d experience it all. By Samantha Garbarini
Only dishing out baked goods Friday–Monday, there’s often a line at Breadfolks, which opened on Warren Street in 2020. Inside, shelves are lined with organic, naturally fermented breads and European-style pastries, like sugary baklava cruffins, orange-cardamom buns, cannelés, and flaky kouign- amann. Weekends are also a good time to rise and shine for brunch at Rivertown Lodge, where instead of eggs Benedict, you can dine on spent grain biscuits with cultured butter, herb-packed kuku sabzi, a Calabrian chili and fontina BEC, or a puffy Dutch baby with ricotta and maple.
Though the exterior looks like your typical greasy spoon, Grazin’ slings impeccably sourced diner burgers. Owners Dan and Susan Gibson raise their own grass-fed-and- finished Black Angus beef on a nearby farm to build juicy patties with in-season toppings and perfect, hand-cut organic fries. At New American Swoon Kitchenbar, the menu — spice-rubbed skirt steak, local vegetable risotto, grilled pork chops — changes with the bounty of nearby farms. Owners Jeff and Nina Gimmel also operate French Le Perche with a similar ethos and the added bonus of an on-site wood-burning bakery.
A wood-burning oven is also the foundation at Oak Pizzeria Napoletana, where naturally leavened pies come in two forms: puffy-edged Neapolitan and thick-and-airy Roman squares. To meet increased demand for to-go options, part of the space is now a salumeria, offering
    16 the valley table april – may 2021
photos by evan sung (backbar), by emma tuccillo (rivertown lodge)

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