Page 88 - The Hunt - Winter 2022

VINTAGE
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lead foil, a corkscrew, a funnel, a decanter and perhaps a lit candle much like the
one used by the master of the cellar. The cork would be withdrawn and sniffed to see whether the contents were still sound. Then the wine would be funneled into a decanter held at eye level in one hand with the candle behind it in the other. In a time when most wines weren’t filtered, the sediment would stay in the bottle’s shoulder and avoid the decanter.
Today, there’s still an astounding number of vintage tools out there.
In addition to the many tasting cups, corkscrews and other pullers, funnels, decanters and wine candles and their holders, there’s an array of vintage wine glasses. At one time, every wine region in Europe had its distinctive glass— Champagne’s flutes and coupes, Bordeaux’s large bowl and Burgundy’s smaller one, the small glasses with colored stems for the German white wines, small port glasses, and so on. Many can still be purchased at estate auctions or online.
Sometimes a winery will display an old-fashioned screw wine press or sell aging barrels to be cut in half and used as patio planters. And for the wine student, there are many books to pore over—like Sains- bury’s Notes on a Cellar Book and Michael Broadbent’s The Great Vintage Wine Book.
For those interested in learning more about vintage wine gear, Wintherthur Museum, Garden & Library is a great place to start. Ten years ago, Leslie Grigsby, senior curator of ceramics and glass, mounted the popular wine-related exhibition Uncorked in the museum’s galleries. It can still be accessed online. “Changes in decorative wine glasses
are often a product of advances in technology,” says Grigsby.
Decanters are also an interesting subject. Not just an elegant serving vessel, they allow the wine to get a few gulps of oxygen. “It wasn’t until the mid-1700s that wine bottles disappeared from the table during elegant dinners,” Grigsby says.
Grisby can also chart the evolution of bottles. Early on, they were brown, bul- bous “onion bottles” that would never fit a modern wine rack. “Today’s cylindrical wine bottles didn’t come along until the 18th century,” she notes, pointing out one
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1. Publication Title: The Hunt
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11,403
9,600
0 89 0 9,689
494
0
0
171 665 10,354 1,049 11,403 93.6%
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