Page 83 - The Hunt - Winter 2022

Wiine and food pairings have always been about celebrating the combined experience. That goal
is often reached by selecting a wine that either complements, contrasts with or balances the food, often using acid to tame something that by itself is quite rich. There have been historic pairings through the centuries that still seem do go so well together. In Italy, the Emilia region west of Bologna is known for balancing its fattier pork dishes with the bubbles and crispness of local Lambrusco wine. Meanwhile, east of Bologna, Romagna grows beef that pairs better with its robust red Sangiovese wines.
Here in the Brandywine Valley, quality family-made wines have been available only for the last two or three decades, and no such
historic wine and food pairings exist—yet. So we asked some Chester County vintners which of their wines they might pair with local foods over the holidays.
Every celebration needs to start with
a sparkling wine, and a few good ones are produced locally. At 1723 Vineyards in Kemblesville, Ben and Sarah Cody make theirs from cabernet franc and chardonel, a relatively new and interesting hybrid grape. “The current 1723 blanc de blanc is fairly dry as far as sparkling wine goes,” says Ben, who recommends pairing it with smoked trout spreads, stuffed mushrooms and baked crab dip. “With about five grams of residual sugar per liter, it’s going to pair really well with anything fatty and savory.”
Earlier this year, Kyle Jones opened his Acadian Wine Company tasting room in West Grove, buying what had been Kreutz Creek Vineyards when Carole and Jim Kirkpatrick decided to retire. He’s not new to winemaking, having worked in other Pennsylvania cellars, and he loves to cook. One of his creations is a dish made with locally raised pork and a fruit glazing. He pairs it with a standard Acadian riesling, which is a tad sweeter and fruitier than his dry version. “The acid is there to match the salty and fatty flavors, and the sweetness also balances the salty taste,” says Jones. “The
big tropical fruit notes are elevated by the pineapple or peach glazing, and any added clove or nutmeg would add to the synergy.”
By RogeR MoRRis
Celebrate by Pairing
Brandywine Valley vintners offer some suggestions for bringing together great wine and food.
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FOOD & DRINK