Page 63 - The Hunt - Fall 2021

FOOD & DRINK
Practical tips on holiday feasting from the region’s pros.
Ham or turkey? Or maybe beef ?
Every holiday season, home cooks agonize over their centerpiece meat. And like penitents preparing
resolutions for the coming New Year, they resolve to do something different—or do what they always do, only better. This year, we sought some professional help in four critical
areas: meat selection, kitchen tools, techniques and recipes. We even offer some tips for those who want to go beyond tying up a roast, brining a turkey or smoking a ham.
CHOICE CUTS
The quest for a centerpiece protein can prompt a series of questions. How many people are eating? What are their expectations? How picky are they about medium- rare meat? What real (or imagined) allergies do they have? What about kitchen capacity? And perhaps most
A stuffed leg of lamb can be a beautiful centerpiece for at-table carving.
important: How competent and adventuresome is the home chef feeling? Adventuresome is more fun—and more memorable for your guests if things turn out well (and especially if they don’t).
Let’s begin with something a little edgier: game. As it’s illegal to sell anything shot in the wild, that means visiting a butcher who carries the farm-raised variety, which will also has a less gamey flavor. Many restaurants serve venison, duck and rabbit, so many city dwellers have tried them. Even some supermarkets offer at least a modest selection of game.
By Roger Morris
Meat
Expectations
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