Page 17 - Italian American Herald - July 2019

VINI D’ITALIA
else.” For him it is “ ... the natural evolution of winemaking to become a maverick.” That attitude explains him being the first to bottle single vineyard Sagrantino, a concept he considers “ ... the most interesting thing we can do in wine. The same grape can be so different from single vineyards, so I think there can be different versions of the truth.”
Mild-mannered, contemplative and scholarly, Botti has a quote from Virgil on his website: “Praise a large estate but cultivate
a small one.” The notion that “less is more” accurately describes his Colle del Saraceno cantina. Making only four wines totaling 2,800 cases a year, he sees no need to expand or compete, believing that “
... by staying a small producer I
can respect nature and its cycles.”
When asked about his connection to the land, he replies, “I was born among olive trees and vineyards and felt that nature and its fruits had to be in my life. I think the most important thing in making wine is passion
and seriousness.” He wants
his wines to “ ... tell about
the land they come from ... where they are born, live
and grow, the vegetation
all around. Only then can you understand them.” You can picture Virgil sharing a bottle with him, praising his small estate, and listening to words of wisdom from a man in touch with his surroundings. “If you listen to nature, every day it teaches you something about life.”
The two men are divergent paths leading to Sagrantino in the image of its makers. Tabarrini’s single vineyard wines are boldly outgoing, balancing finesse and power, Muhammad Ali in a bottle. Botti’s are serious, complex and low key, more a kiss on the cheek than a knockout punch. Savoring their wines validates Tabarrini’s contention that there can be different versions of Sagrantino’s truth. IAH
ITALIAN-AMERICAN HERALD
JULY 2019 | ITALIANAMERICANHERALD.COM 17
Francesco Botti
Giampaolo Tabarrini
Tabarrini decided to experiment with after DNA research proved it to be unique to Umbria. He’s not sure what the outcome will be, only that “ ... it will take us somewhere
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