Page 15 - Italian American Herald - July 2020

ITALIAN-AMERICAN HERALD
VINI D’ITALIA
Corsican wine: Neither French nor Italian, thank you very much
JULY2020 | ITALIANAMERICANHERALD.COM 15
By Frank Cipparone
Are Corsican wines more French or Italian? Are they a cultural hybrid? Does it really matter? The series of
well- researched articles
that ran in this paper a while back got me to thinking about what the future holds for the Corsican winemakers. With the recent surge of interest in island wines, Corsica could become the next Mediterranean star. The prime materials have been there for
a long time.
Corsica may be a newcomer in the
sense of recognition, but its vinicultural history mirrors ancient trade patterns. Like neighboring Italian islands, wine production absorbed a succession of outside influences. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Moors and the city states of Pisa and Genoa had all left their mark before France claimed dominion in the 18th century.
As for establishing an identity, Corsica’s wine is neither French nor Italian, and that’s
an important cultural touchstone to its people. It is resolutely Corsican with some similarities to both but a deep sense of pride in its singularity and patrimonio – where it comes from. One of the things that separates Corsica from other wine regions is not falling for the quick fix of getting attention by using popular grapes like Chardonnay, Syrah and Merlot.
The lesson of Sicily betting heavily on international varieties to the detriment of its native vines hasn’t been lost on a younger generation of Corsicans who are following the example of Antoine Abbatucci. In the 1960s, he advocated for preserving local grapes and their historical importance
at a time when farmers were ripping out vineyards for more profitable crops. His son Jean-Charles took up the cause and extended his father’s acres in order to save obscure varieties that were on the brink of extinction that represent a catalogue of Corsican winemaking – Cualtacciu, Ministellu, Montaneccia, Carcajola and Murseaun among others.
Corsica has nine designated production zones. The largest, which covers the whole
island, is Vin de Corse AOP (the French version of Italy’s DOC system). It accounts for two-thirds of annual production, most of it simple, generic wine dressed up by labeling it Vin de Pays de I’Ile de Beaute’ – country wine from the island of beauty. Be that as
it may, for most of the world that’s code for wine not to be taken seriously and does little to change long-held opinions of the inferiority
of Corsican wine compared to Sardinia or Sicily. Up until about 20 years ago, Corsica was still depending on French
vines like Grenache and Carignan, brought by Algerians who moved there to make low quality bulk wine for blending.
If there’s going to be a step forward it will likely depend on three grapes – Niellucciu, Sciaccarellu, and Vermentino. The first is a branch of the Sangiovese tree, a rustic and muscular red with big tannins that has been compared to Umbria’s rough and tumble Sagrantino (I don’t agree) and to robust Syrah from the northern Rhone area. When you read about the second, also a red, it sounds like a review of Pinot Noir from Burgundy – light, elegant, suave. Such descriptions point out one of the problems facing any emerging region,
how to describe its wines
in order to make them approachable for consumers. The old “it tastes like chicken” thing. Understanding and accepting their unique characteristics and how they represent different vineyard areas and Corsica’s natural environment will take time.
It will also depend on
how willing producers are to be patient. Corsican wines age well, which should be good news. But as market demand grows, that means getting their product out there. Some winemakers want to regulate how long they should age wines before releasing them. That would be similar to the way it’s done
in Spain’s Rioja and one of the reasons those wines have become successful. Time will tell. What Corsica does well is Vermentino, an
adaptable grape that also thrives on Sardinia. That’s to be expected considering how close they are and also to the Tuscan coast and Liguria, other areas where it is the main white grape. Corsica’s higher altitudes and granite- based soil yield a different Vermentino, one filled with herbal aromas that the French
call maquis or garrigue and Italians macchia. Another white ready to be “discovered” is Biancu Gentile, an ancient grape exclusive to Corsica that’s gotten good reviews even though only five wineries make it.
My experience with Corsican wine has been limited, but I’ve liked what I’ve had. Domaine Vaccelli does Sciaccarellu in a style that reminds me of a high-octane Spanish Garnacha. They also make it as a stunning copper colored rose’, as fine as any I’ve come across. Their Vermentino is as good if not better than those from Sardinia and Liguria. Comte Abbatucci’s main offering is a peppery, zesty Nielucciu/Sciaccarellu blend. Other producers to look for are Poli, Giacometti, and Vetriccie.
As of now, Corsica will have to be on
our wish list, unless you can find a retailer who ships to your area. Before the current health crisis, Wine Works in Marlton, New Jersey, Total Wine, and Pennsylvania’s Fine Wine and Good Spirits stores and online site carried a good selection. IAH