Page 4 - Italian-American Herald - August 2023

4 ITALIANAMERICANHERALD.COM | AUGUST2023 ITALIAN-AMERICANHERALD TASTE OF ITALY
Gelato: It’s softer and silkier
than ice cream, but with less fat
Continued from front page
where changes in technology made mass production easier. However, with the industrialization of gelato, changes were made that also changed the taste and texture of the original.
While the key components of milk, cream and air are similar, there is a difference in their proportions and how they are mixed together.
The creation begins with pasteurization of the milk and cream which is left to “age.” The next step is to churn and freeze this mix at the same time, and this is when air is infused and where the difference between gelato and ice cream comes into play.
The air has what is called an “overrun,” which is the percentage the ice cream expands during the freezing process. If you process one liter (approximately 34 ounces) it ends up as two liters with an overrun of 100 percent, which is equal parts air and liquid. Ice cream (and soft-serve ice creams) have overruns of 100 percent or more, while Italian gelato is closer to a 30 percent overrun.
The two main ingredients for ice cream and gelato are milk and cream, but it is the percentage that produces the difference in
texture and taste. Ice cream contains more cream while gelato is made with a larger proportion of whole milk. Egg yolks are used in the production of ice cream but generally not used in gelato. These variations affect
the amount of fat in each product and also the texture. Ice cream standards call for a minimum of 10 percent fat while gelato contains somewhere between 5 to 7 percent.
There is also a difference in the manner in which both are stored. Ice cream is stored and served at around 0 degrees Fahrenheit, while gelato is stored and served at a slightly warmer temperature. This makes the texture softer and silkier.
Gelato does not come in as many varieties as American ice cream but there are still plenty to choose from. Gelato displays are a feast for the eyes (and luckily you are often invited to taste before you decide). Once you have chosen your flavor your cone or cup will be handed to you with a flourish and sometimes with a biscotti in various shapes.
Making gelato is considered an art and just like other artistic career choices there are schools that specialize in this craft. The well- known Carpigiani Gelato University near Bologna, Italy, offers a four-week course to
Florentine designer and architect Bernardo Buontalenti is credited with inventing gelato.
become a “master gelatiere.” Students from all over the world learn not only how to make gelato but also the business side of owning and operating their own shop. This university also has a location in North Carolina. There are also other locations throughout Italy where you can take a two- to four-hour class to learn the process. Experiences like this are also available in locations across the United States.
Gelato students from all over the world study in classrooms, get firsthand crafting experience, and learn how to open and operate their own gelato shop. Today there are around 19,000 gelaterie in Italy. Eighty percent of these are artisanal gelaterie.
If you are looking for gelato that is truly
homemade according to tradition, you should look for a sign in the gelateria window or in the display case which is marked
with a D.O.P. (Denominazione d’Origine Protetta). This is a certification from the Italian government which verifies that a food product is from this region of Italy and has national geographical indication protection.
Once you are inside a gelateria, the hardest part will be to decide which flavor you want to order. Remember, most places will allow you small samples to help you decide. I have three favorites from which I rarely deviate. One is bacio, a chocolate gelato with a crunchy hazelnut inside. Another is nocciola, a mixture with hazelnuts freshly
Pistachio is one of the bestselling flavors of gelato, particularly in Sicily where they use a special variety of local nuts.
Ice cream standards call for
a minimum of 10 percent fat while gelato contains somewhere between 5 to 7 percent.