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14 ITALIANAMERICANHERALD.COM | AUGUST 2019 ITALIAN-AMERICANHERALD VINI D’ITALIA
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white grapes to make ambrato, a countrified farmhouse rosato, and is still used to make ruby Marsala. Its was valued as a coloring agent and for its ability to combine with tannins to make wines more age-worthy. As Barbera points out, “ ... when there was
almost no Nero d’Avola in the west, Perricone was the only grape farmers could use to make red wines with intense body and longevity.”
There were interacting natural factors that led to Perricone’s decline. For one, this soulful grape, like its environment, is such a tough customer it’s a wonder anyone works with it. Even those invested in it acknowledge the constant difficulties they face. Perricone is thin-skinned and ripens late, meaning changes in normal weather patterns can be disastrous. If certain naturally occurring compounds are elevated
it can be abrasive, or in
Barbera’s words, “... give birth to sometimes grouchy wines, especially in rainy vintages.”
It’s also not very productive, which caused growers to switch to other grapes in the last half of the 20th century. “Remember,” adds Lombardo di Monte
Iato, “grapes were sold by weight, so farmers needed to have guaranteed
production.” The dramatic results are confirmed by the numbers — in the early 1900s there were 85,000 acres of Perricone; at present there are about 365, making it the 20th most planted variety in Sicily. That represents a mere 0.3% of the island’s grapes.
To Barbera, “It’s a real pity. We Sicilians lost confidence in our quality, and following what the market wanted seemed the only way out. Many started to abandon our grapes in favor of international ones, a trend that continues. Producers plant Pinot Noir, Syrah and say nobody knows Perricone ... that it’s inconceivable to promote a wine with a difficult name
to pronounce. “
This soulful grape, like its environment, is such a tough customer
it’s a wonder anyone works with it.
That’s not the only commercial challenge. According to Barbera, Perricone must undergo a long period of refining, making
it almost impossible to produce the type of fresh, fruity wines today’s consumers are looking for. “Making a wine that needs a minimum of three years before it becomes friendly,” she continues, “is not an option for the big, industrial wineries in west Sicily.” Her fellow Perricone advocate at Firriato notes that “ ... it’s difficult because Italy in general, and Sicily in particular, has a lot of native vines, so it’s a winemaking and marketing challenge to help consumers identify Perricone as a quality grape that makes wonderful wine.”
The news isn’t all bad. Because Perricone thrives in Sicily’s terrain and climate it makes
for full-bodied, darkly colored wines whose strong tannins house ripe flavors of cherries, plums and dark berries mixed with green herbs and peppery spices. Rough and rustic when young, Perricone will develop balance and depth as it matures.
Barbera’s optimism and commitment are evident. “Perricone that you find today is made by small producers, people who love their vineyards and respect their grapes. They will keep it alive. It will be our signature grape for years to come. We will work to offer the best expression of Perricone in every vintage.” IAH
Firriato Perricone can be found in Pennsylvania and Wine Works in Marlton, New Jersey. Other producers are available at Astor Wines in Manhattan and at winesearcher.com.
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34 | GIVING GUIDE 2018/2019
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