Page 50 - Westchester Magazine - January 2011

Joe Bastianich and Mario
the Cookery’s excellence shine through. While we’re fans of DiBari’s house-made pastas—and his grandmother’s Easter pie is
a cult among local chefs—we’ll always keep an eye out for DiBari’s puckish fried calves’ brains, deep- fried duck tongues, and crisp veal tails. If anyone can make a silk purse out of these sows’ ears, it’s gotta be Dave DiBari.
EASTCHESTER FISH GOURMET
Scarsdale
(914) 725-3450 eastchesterfish.com
There’s only one word you want to hear in regard to a fish market: fresh. Eastchester Fish Gourmet? The freshest. Staffers travel to the New Fulton Fish Market every
day and select fish from the recent catch, which they filet in-house for maximum freshness. And, if you don’t want to broil your own fish, they do a pretty great job of cook- ing it, too. Try the garlic-laden tagliatelle, or the surprisingly greaseless fish ’n’ chips.
EMMA’S ALE HOUSE
White Plains
(914) 683-3662 emmasalehouse.com
Emma’s has everything you could want in a cozy Irish pub/ restaurant. There’s the dark wood and clubby feel. There are comfort- ing dishes, like chicken pot pie and beef stew. There are sliders, too— five different kinds, that you can mix and match in perfect trios. And, best of all, the Irish heritage of Emma’s isn’t the only thing that’s green. Emma’s Ale House has been certified green by the Green Restaurant Association.
FAIRWAY MARKET
Pelham Manor (914) 712-0011 fairwaymarket.com
Never before did we imagine shopping in 75,000 square feet
of groceries. We never thought
we could look upon a wall of 200 kinds of olive oil. Fairway wows
us with sheer volume and range. The butchers work onsite, ensur- ing you access to almost any cut from nose to tail. And you can find your basic Kellogg’s cereals and Tropicana OJ across the aisle from organic, specialty, and altogether fancier items on your list. It’s as if your local A&P and Whole Foods
somehow set up shop within each other—eliminating the need to go to either of them.
FRANK PEPE PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA
Yonkers
(914) 961-8284 pepespizzeria.com
No more pilgrimages to New Haven for Frank Pepe’s famous pies. We snagged Frank Pepe’s first non-Connecticut location, and the flavor has lost nothing in the border crossing. The pizzeria packs much flavor into its yeast dough through its two, white- tiled, coal-fired ovens, which cook pizzas at temperatures of 700°F. Now that’s a hot—if oddly shaped—slice.
42
White Plains
(914) 761-4242 42therestaurant.com
One of the biggest changes
the county has seen in the past decade is unmistakable from 287: we now have a skyline. And, sit- ting atop that skyline, on the top floor of the tony Ritz-Carlton, Westchester, is restaurant
42. But the bird’s-eye view of Westchester and beyond is hardly the only draw here. Chef Anthony Goncalves peppers his menu with a mix of new and classic dishes, staying true to his Iberian roots. Hotel dining has never been
so good.
FRANKIE & JOHNNIE’S
Rye
(914) 925-3900 frankieandjohnnies.com
Separately, throughout the years, this magazine has bestowed honors upon Frankie & Johnnie’s for its porterhouse (2007), its ribeye (2008), and its sirloin steak (2009). Suffice it to say, the meat is good. Real good. Dry-aged cuts come cut and seared to perfection and with a bottle of house-made steak sauce so tasty you can buy it and bring it home with you.
GREYSTON BAKERY
Yonkers
(914) 375-1510 greystonbakery.com
Greyston was founded by Buddhists, not bakers. Its motto is: “We don’t hire people to bake brownies; we bake brownies to hire people.” Well, either way,
Tarry Lodge
Port Chester
(914) 939-3111; tarrylodge.com
Though Tarry Fine Foods and Tarry Wines are now grabbing the headlines, the dynamic duo of Bastianich and Batali launched their Westchester empire at Tarry Lodge. We love these folks for their la dolce vita one-stop shopping: we’ll hit Tarry Lodge for fabulous wine, baccala and guanciale and sunnyside-egg pizza, then walk off
the calories (and pick up dessert) at Tarry Fine Foods. To soothe us afterward, we’ll tuck into a nightcap from Tarry Wines—it’s a Bastianich/Batali-led Italian tour, and right here in Port Chester.
Batali: the duo who launched Tarry Lodge
grounds at the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, plus it runs on 100 percent renewable energy. Coffee Labs offers a water bowl for dogs outside and, often, live music—and who wants ubiq- uity when there’s uniqueness in Tarrytown?
THE COOKERY
Dobbs Ferry (914) 305-2336
thecookeryrestaurant.com
Stripped down and focused, Dave DiBari is Westchester’s answer to David Chang, where the aesthetics of great cooking and good value outweigh the usual front-of-house frippery. The Cookery’s workers wear mechanics’ uniforms, tables are bare, and napkins are kitchen towels, yet the innate quality of DiBari’s craftsmanship makes
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PHOTO THIS PAGE BY KELLY CAMPBELL